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UGANDA
Guerrillas and Gorillas
By Jheri St. James
A Village Store in Uganda
Earth is the only planet in the
solar system on which the presence of living things is definitely
known. It is
the third planet outward from the sun, the fifth largest in the
solar system. The earth consists of three main zones: the atmosphere;
the hydrosphere—including all the bodies of water and ice on earth; and the lithosphere—the
rocks that form the earth’s crust, mantle, and core. The
atmosphere provides air for breathing, shields plants and animals
from excess heat from the sun, and filters out the lethal shorter
ultraviolet rays that would otherwise destroy life. The hydrosphere
is also essential for life. Water and ice cover more than 70%
of the earth’s surface, making possible the hydrologic
cycle by which water is evaporated from the oceans and precipitated
as rain or snow, moistening the land and then returning to the
oceans. Finally, the lithosphere makes up the landmasses or continents,
sea beds, and the inner mass of the planet.
The earth’s crust varies in thickness from
between an average of 20 miles (32 km) under the continents to
5 miles (8 km) under the oceans. Beneath the crust, the distinct
zone called the mantle is some 1,800 miles (2,900 km) thick.
Within the mantle lies the earth’s core, with a diameter
of about 4,300 miles (6,900 km). Seismic data suggest that the
core may consist of a solid center surrounded by a liquid outer
core.
Above
the earth and its spheres extends the sky—the
universe, the cosmos, limitless space—making the earth
miniscule in relation to this vastness. One wise man called mankind
and its activities on earth like “the haze on a plum” when
compared to the big picture of the solar system.
In Uganda, the haze is just as opaque
as everywhere else on the landmass of the planet. Which is
more true, the travel
advertisements or the stories about the grisliest war criminals;
the existence of some of nature’s most breathtaking landscapes
and species, or the statistics about AIDS, genocides, environmental
suicide?
Geographically, Uganda is situated
in at the geographical heart of the African continent, bordered
by the Democratic Republic
of the Congo, Kenya, Rwanda, Sudan and Tanzania. As a landlocked
country, 80% of Uganda’s terrain consists of a fertile
plateau some 3,000 to 5,000 ft above sea level, with highlands
to the east and west. About 16,380 sq. mi. of Uganda consists
of freshwater lakes and swamps. At the center of the plateau
that dominates the country is Lake Kyoga. Other lakes are named
Edward, Albert, George and Victoria. Although Uganda is a tropical
country, crossed by the equator, its altitude ensures a comparatively
mild climate.
Those lake names indicate a British presence in
Uganda and it was during 1894 that the Baganda Kingdom came under
British protectorate, which gradually extended to other kingdoms.
By 1914, the present boundaries of Uganda became fixed and in
1962, Uganda became independent.
Through
all the years of the history of this portion of the earth’s surface, heritage has lived on in the hearts
of the people—their traditional dress, languages, dances
and customs—traditions as exemplified in the Buganda Kingdom,
in the footsteps of the “Kabaka”, the king of Buganda.
A very important cultural symbol for the Baganda and also a magnificent
tourist attraction are the “The Tombs” which, like
all other sights, lie right in the city. The big round shaped
hut is where 4 of the 37 kings of Buganda were buried.
The Kasubi Tombs
The Uganda Tourist Board enthusiastically
recommends Uganda as a tourist destination. “Dominated
by an expansive golf course leading down to the lakeshore,
and a century-old
botanical garden alive with the chatter of acrobatic monkeys
and colourful tropical birds, Entebbe itself is the least obviously
urban of all comparably sized African towns. Then, just 40 km
distant, sprawled across seven hills, there is the capital, Kampala.
The bright modern feel of this bustling, cosmopolitan city reflects
the ongoing economic growth and political stability that has
characterized Uganda since 1986, and it is complemented by the
sloping spaciousness and runaway greenery of its garden setting.
The Seven Hills of Kampala in Uganda
“Ecologically, Uganda is where
the East African savannah meets the West African jungle. Where
else but in this
impossibly lush country can one observe lions prowling the open
plans in the morning and track chimpanzees through the rainforest
undergrowth the same afternoon, then the next day navigate tropical
channels teeming with hippo and crocs before setting off into
the misty mountains to stare deep into the eyes of a mountain
gorilla? Certainly, Uganda is the only safari destination whose
range of forest primates is as impressive as its selection of
plains antelope.”
Ugandan Lady Taking Bananas to Market
On the same date as the above was
published, the following press statement was issued by the
Uganda Tourist Board: “Ambush
of Tourist by Suspected L.R.A. Rebels—Government of Uganda
wishes to throw more light on the November 8, 2005, ambush of
five people in Gulu district, which left one person dead as reported
in the local media . . . It must be noted and clarified that
despite the regrettable demise of Steve Willis, Manager of Red
Chilli, there was concerted effort and rapid response by UWA
and UPDF to save lives and contain the situation… The ambush
was carried out by three thugs, believed to be some of the L.R.A.
remnants that are scatted in Gulu District.”
“L.R.A. is the acronym for the Lord’s
Resistance Army, for the last 19 years purported to have been
sent by God to save Ugandans from the forces of evil, but which
has terrorized the Acholi people in northern Uganda, killing
and maiming, and abducting more than 20,000 children for use
as child soldiers, sex slaves and porters. The International
Criminal Court has finally issued warrants for L.R.C. leader
Joseph Kony and three of his top commanders for ordering the
commission of crimes within the jurisdiction of the court, including
murder, abduction, sexual enslavement, and mutilation. Unable
to destroy the rebels by armed force or to lure them from the
bush with the promise of amnesty, Uganda’s president, Yoweri
Museveni decided nearly two years ago to refer the conflict to
the ICC, hoping to put an end to the impunity Kony has enjoyed
until now. However, issuing arrest warrants is one thing, catching
the culprits quite another. If Kony has evaded the full force
of Uganda’s army for the past two decades, what hope has
the court of nabbing him, with no troops or police at its disposal?
More than before. The peace deal between the Sudanese government
in Khartoum and Sudanese rebels in the south ahs made it harder
for the LRA to hide in Sudan. Since 2002 Sudan’s government
has allowed Uganda’s army to enter the southernmost tip
of Sudan in pursuit of the LRA, now it has agreed to let it move
further north. The arrest warrants should also increase international
pressure to catch Kony and his top men.” (The Economist,
October 2005).
Uganda achieved independence from the UK in 1962.
The dictatorial regime of Idi Amin (1971-1979) was responsible
for the deaths of some 300,000 opponents. Guerrilla war and human
rights abuses under Milton Obote (1980-1985) claimed at least
another 100,000 lives. Life expectancy at this time in Uganda
at birth is 51.59 years, which is low, but not as low as other
African nations like Tanzania at 45, Niger 42, Malawi at 37,
or Botswana the lowest at 34 years of age. The infant mortality
rate is 67.83 deaths per 1,000 live births.
* * *
An Acrobat in Shamba, Uganda
Uganda’s star attraction is the endangered
mountain gorilla, the bulkiest of living primates, and among
the most peaceable. Staring into the pensive brown eyes of these
gentle giants, who share 95% of their genes with humans, is as
humbling as it is thrilling; no less so when one realizes that
fewer than 700 individuals survive, divided between the Bwindi
National park and the Virunga Mountains. Within Uganda, five
habituated gorilla troops—four in Bwindi and one in Mgahinga
National Park—can be visited by tourists. Uganda is also
home to man’s closest relative, the chimpanzee, a delightful
ape whose evocative pant-hoot call is a definitive sound of the
African rainforest. Chimpanzee communities have been habituated
for tourism. Monkeys are exceptionally well represented in Uganda.
Kibale Forest boasts the greatest primate variety and density
in East Africa, with five or six species likely to be observed.
Elsewhere, Mgahinga National Park hosts habituated troops of
the rare golden monkey, while Murchison Falls is one of the few
East African strongholds for the spindly, plains-dwelling patas
monkey. The fossilized 20-million-year-old bones of Morotopithecus,
the earliest-known ancestor of modern apes and humans, were unearthed
in the 1960’s near Moroto in Eastern Uganda, and are now
housed in the National Museum in Kampala.
Silverback Gorilla in Uganda
* * *
Common Ground 191’s soil collector in Uganda
was a man named Basasira David Mukasa, who lives in Kampala.
Here’s what he says about his country: “Bulange (the
headquarters of the Buganda Kingdom) is not only the headquarters
of the Buganda Kingdom but also it’s next to King Ronald
Muwanda Mutebbi II’s palace, one of the most powerful,
long-surviving monarchies here in Uganda and Africa as well.
The Buganda love this place so, so much and it’s one of
the most cultural sites here in Uganda.
 Kabaka
Ronald Muwanda Mwtebi II King Oyo
of Toro (4 Years Old)
The Mwtebi Palace
“This is just a village where you find the
headquarters of Buganda Kingdom. It’s also the place next
to Kabaka Ronald Muwanda Mwtebi II’s palace. His father,
Kabaka (King) Mutesa built it. This is where the first missionaries
arrived and were granted permission to do their work of preaching
Christianity. As such, people like Stanley, Loudel and Amass
(Catholics) were able to build churches next to this place.
“Rubaga Cathedral (headquarters for Catholics)
is just next to this place. It’s a 30-minute walk from
Bulange. Namirembe Cathedral (headquarters for Protestants) is
a 15 minutes walk from Bulange. Bulange is a hill, thus at this
place you can see the whole capital city of our country (Kampala)
and it’s a 45-minute walk from it. You are also able to
see Lake Victoria (Ggaba) the source of the River Nile).
“Bulange is the Kabaka seat. It has a parliament
for the Buganda ministries and clans. Remember, before the Whites
came, there was no Uganda. It was Buganda, Ankole, Buayoro, Busoga,
etc., and were under a federal system of government, which were
the Baganda people, which we still demand from the central government.
You will see the beautiful architecture of Bulange and the Twekobe
(Kabaka’s home) with round arches, beautiful columns, etc.
The sculpture of Kabaka Mutebi II. The town next to Bulange is
Mengo. It’s just a perimeter wall that separates the two.
The first hospitals built by missionaries are immediate neighbours
to this place. Mengo Hospital (10 minute walk), Rubaga hospital
(30 minute walk). There are also homes of royals (those during
Mutesa’s regime).
The Bulange
Bulange was built during Muteesa’s regime
I and Muteesa II became the first President of Uganda. This place
has the Kabaka’s lake (man-made as a result of making bricks
from clay to construct a wall onto the palace). That’s
Bulange! Gary, love live Kabaka Ronald Muwenda Mutebi. Basasira
David Mukasa 23rd Oct. 05. Please Gary, if at all there are certificates/anything
to the volunteers who participated, please send it to me as a
souvenir. I love this project and it’s my prayer that it
turns out to be successful.”
Mr. Mukasa has a real relationship
with the surface of the earth, remarking as he has on the amount
of time it takes
to walk from place to place in Uganda. John Lennon and Yoko Ono
said, “Lift your eyes and look around you, and you will
see that you are walking in the sky, which extends to the ground.
We are all part of the sky, more so than of the ground.” In
the place of the haze, only rarely do our bare feet bottoms touch
the ground, the soil, and the rest of our beings really are in
the sky. Let us contemplate that idea, and remember it when we
ask the environmental, political and moral questions about human
life in Uganda and on our planet earth that seem so imperative.
Karimojong Warrior
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